What an electric strike is and what it replaces
Every latch or bolt on a door needs something to catch it. That something is the strike, a small metal plate set into the door frame with an opening for the latch. In an ordinary door the strike is a fixed piece of steel. The latch pops into the opening, and the door stays closed until the handle is turned to pull the latch back.
An electric strike replaces that fixed plate with one that has a movable part, called a keeper or a gate. When the strike is not energized, the keeper holds the latch in the opening just as a fixed strike would. When the strike receives an electrical signal, the keeper swings out of the way, the latch can leave the opening, and the door can be pulled open without anyone turning a handle or a key. A moment later the keeper returns, and the door is secure again.
This is useful in many settings. A receptionist can buzz in visitors without leaving the desk. A card reader can release a door for staff. A keypad can release a back door for a delivery. The lockset on the door still works as normal from the inside and, if a key is fitted, from the outside. The strike simply adds a second way to open the door from outside: by electrical release.
Because the strike is mounted in the frame, not the door, it suits many existing doors without replacing the lockset. That is the main attraction compared with other electrified hardware. Whether it fits your door depends on the lockset, the frame and the way the door is used. The sections below walk through those questions, and the companion page on card reader door installation planning covers the system around it.
Matching the strike to the lockset
An electric strike must be built for the kind of lock that will engage it. The most common pairing is a strike for a cylindrical lockset, the familiar lever or knob lock with a spring latch bolt, found on many office doors. The strike has an opening sized for the latch and a keeper that releases it. Another common pairing is a strike for a mortise lock, whose latch and sometimes deadbolt engage a deeper, differently shaped opening. A third is a strike for a rim exit device, where a surface mounted latch grips a keeper on the face of the frame.
These are not interchangeable. A strike made for a cylindrical latch will not work with a mortise lock, and a strike for a mortise lock may not suit a narrow latch. When ordering or planning, the installer needs the make and model of the lockset, or enough information to identify it, such as the backset, the latch type and the faceplate dimensions.
A key point involves deadbolts. Many office doors have both a spring latch and a deadbolt. An electric strike releases the spring latch but cannot move a deadbolt that is thrown. If the deadbolt is extended, the strike releases nothing, because the bolt is still in the frame. For doors intended for remote release, the deadbolt is either removed, kept retracted during business hours or replaced with a lock designed for the purpose. A visitor who finds the door buzzes but does not open has often run into a thrown deadbolt.
Another matter is the deadlatch feature. Many commercial latches have a small plunger that prevents the latch from being pushed back when the door is closed. The strike must accommodate it, and its keeper must hold the plunger depressed as designed. A mismatch can make the door too easy to push open or too hard to release. A technician checks the details before cutting any metal.
- Strike type must match the lockset: cylindrical, mortise or rim exit device
- The make, model and backset of the lock help identify the correct strike
- A thrown deadbolt will block a remote release
- Deadlatch plungers must be accommodated by the keeper
- Check the frame and door condition before ordering anything
Which frames accept a strike
The frame must have room for the strike body, which is deeper than a plain strike plate. Most strikes need a pocket in the frame, behind the face, large enough to hold the unit and its wiring. The kind of frame decides how easy that is.
Hollow metal frames, common in commercial buildings, are usually the easiest. The frame is a folded steel channel with an open back, and a technician can cut an opening in the face and fit the strike inside with its mounting tabs. Many strikes are designed with hollow metal in mind, and the cutout is a standard procedure. The frame may be filled with grout, which makes it harder, and a technician checks for that.
Wood frames can also take strikes, provided the wood is sound and thick enough. The installer routs a pocket in the jamb and sets the strike in place. The wood must be strong enough to hold the strike without splitting. Older frames with rot or termite damage may need repair first. Miami's humidity and pests make this a worthwhile check.
Aluminum storefront frames have little room. The narrow, hollow extrusions are not designed for a standard strike. Dedicated strikes exist for aluminum frames, but they are a separate product, and often a maglock or a mortise lock with built in electrical release is a better fit. See the page on storefront door lock repair for why glass doors are a different problem.
Fire rated door assemblies add another layer. A frame that is part of a rated assembly carries a label, and altering it in ways not permitted by its listing can compromise the rating. Not every strike is approved for rated frames, and the cutting of the frame may be limited. If your door carries a fire rating label, tell the installer so that suitable hardware is chosen and local requirements are respected. The building department or fire authority can say what is allowed.
Preparing the frame and fitting the strike
A well fitted strike starts with careful marking. The technician measures the position of the latch with the door closed and marks the opening in the frame so that the keeper aligns with the latch exactly. Even a small error can cause problems: a latch that sits too high or too low will scrape the keeper, or fail to release, or rattle.
The frame is then cut. For hollow metal, the technician drills and cuts an opening, files the edges and installs the strike body, which is secured with screws to the frame's reinforcing. The wiring enters from the back or the side, through a hole or channel. For wood, the pocket is routed and the strike is screwed to the jamb. A neat cut matters, because gaps around the strike face look untidy and can allow prying.
Wiring connects the strike to its power supply and to the controller or release button. Strikes use low voltage and are available in versions that take direct current or alternating current. The correct supply is chosen to match, and wire is sized for the distance. Some strikes have an internal monitor that signals whether the keeper is open or closed, and others signal whether the latch is present. These features can be wired to the controller for a more reliable system.
After fitting, adjustment is critical. The door should close firmly into the strike, with the latch engaging fully, and the keeper should release without drag when energized. The technician tests with the door in different states: pushed against the stop, pulled slightly, and swinging shut at its usual speed. A door that closes lightly may not engage the latch, and a door that bangs may wear the keeper. The page on door closer adjustment and replacement shows how closing speed affects the result.
A final test checks that the lockset's own function is unaffected. From the inside, the handle must still retract the latch. From the outside, the key or the credential must work as intended.
Fail-secure and fail-safe strikes
Strikes are supplied in two electrical behaviors. In a fail-secure strike, the keeper stays locked when power is absent and releases when power is applied. In a fail-safe strike, the keeper stays locked while power is applied and releases when power is removed. The first suits doors that must remain secure during an outage. The second suits doors that must open in an outage.
Most entry doors on offices use fail-secure strikes, because the inside handle provides a mechanical exit regardless of power. A person inside can always leave by turning the lever, and the strike simply keeps the door closed to people outside. That makes a fail-secure strike with a normal lockset a familiar, widely used arrangement.
Fail-safe strikes appear on doors where the lock must release in an emergency, often connected to a fire alarm. They draw power continuously, which has implications for the power supply and the strike's temperature. A continuous duty strike is built to handle that. A strike not rated for continuous power may overheat.
Which type is appropriate depends on the door and the rules for the building, so do not choose purely on convenience. If a door serves as part of an exit route, the arrangement must provide the exit action required by local authorities. The page on magnetic locks and fire egress explains related issues in more detail. A locksmith installs and services hardware within the approved arrangement and cannot waive rules.
Whatever the choice, test it. Cut power and observe what the door does. Restore power and confirm normal operation. Doing this at the end of the job is a basic step, and you should expect it.
Common problems after installation
Most strike problems come from a handful of causes. The first is misalignment. If the door has dropped, the latch may press against the keeper so hard that the strike cannot release. The symptom is a buzz without release, or release only when someone pushes the door in. Often the fix is to adjust hinges or the closer, not to change the strike.
The second is a latch that is too short or too long for the strike's opening, so it engages poorly. The third is a thrown deadbolt, as described earlier. The fourth is an inadequate power supply, which allows the keeper to move weakly. A strike that works when the door is closed gently but fails when it slams may be fighting a latch that is under load.
The fifth is dirt and corrosion. Strikes sit in the frame at the lock edge, where grit, moisture and salt air collect. The keeper's movement can stiffen, and in coastal areas a corroded strike can stop working altogether. Choosing a strike with a suitable finish and keeping the area clean extends its life.
The sixth is a wrong choice of strike for the door's use. A strike intended for light office use may wear quickly on a busy shop door or a door that is slammed. Heavy duty strikes exist, and a technician can recommend one if your door sees constant traffic.
The seventh is tampering and forcing. A strike that is poorly fitted can be defeated by prying the door at the latch, particularly on a door with a loose gap. A good strike installation includes a snug fit, a proper keeper and a frame that is solid. For the ideas behind strong frames, see door reinforcement and strike plates.
Use cases from different Miami offices
A dental office in a medical plaza wants to keep its front door locked during the day, with the receptionist releasing it for patients. A fail-secure strike with a button at the desk fits the bill. The inside lever still lets people leave, and the strike releases on the push of the button. A camera or intercom lets the receptionist see who is outside.
A small law practice on an upper floor of a downtown building has an entrance from a shared corridor. The landlord controls the corridor, and the suite door is the practice's responsibility. A card reader at the door and an electric strike provide control without disturbing the building. The practice must keep within what the lease allows, and may need the landlord's approval before cutting a frame.
A warehouse office in Doral has a hollow metal door and a back door that deliveries use. A keypad at the back door and a strike allow staff to release the door when they hear a knock. The strike is heavy duty and sealed against dust. See warehouse door locks for more on industrial settings.
A property management office has a glass front door in an aluminum frame, where a standard strike will not fit. The solution is a mortise lock with an electric release built in, or a different arrangement, chosen after an on-site look.
In each case, the strike is only a piece of the plan. The door, the lockset, the frame and the way people use the door matter as much as the hardware itself.
If you are weighing an electric strike for a door, call and describe the door and the lock, and send photos if you can. A technician can explain whether a strike is likely to work and what an on-site visit would cover. Pricing is given by phone, and a service call charge is explained before dispatch.
Questions people ask
Can an electric strike work with the lock I already have?
Often yes, if the lock is a common type and the strike is chosen to match it. The strike must suit the lockset: cylindrical, mortise or rim exit device. Details such as backset, latch size and deadlatch features matter. A technician identifies the lock and frame, then confirms whether a strike will work or whether other hardware is a better fit.
Why does my door buzz but not open?
Common causes are a thrown deadbolt, a door that has dropped so the latch presses hard against the keeper, a weak power supply, or a strike that does not match the latch. Check whether a deadbolt is extended, but do not force the door. A technician can find the cause by observing the door and testing the strike.
Is a fail-secure strike safe for an exit door?
On many doors the inside lever still releases the latch mechanically, so a fail-secure strike keeps the door closed to outsiders without trapping those inside. Whether the arrangement satisfies the rules for your building depends on the door and local requirements. For exit routes, confirm with the fire or building authority or a qualified professional.
Can a strike be installed in a glass storefront door frame?
Standard strikes generally do not fit narrow aluminum frames. Dedicated strikes exist, but often another approach works better, such as a mortise lock with an electric release or an electromagnetic lock. A technician looks at the frame and door before recommending anything, because storefront hardware is a distinct problem.
Does cutting the frame weaken the door?
A properly cut and fitted strike does not weaken a sound frame, but poor cutting can. The frame must have enough material around the opening and secure mounting. Fire rated frames carry additional limits on alteration. A technician checks the frame first and explains what can be done without compromising it.
How do I get a price for an electric strike installation?
Prices are given by phone after you describe the door, the lock and the frame. A job that involves cutting a frame or running new wiring usually needs an on-site visit first. A service call charge applies to dispatch and is explained on the phone before anyone is sent. No prices are published on this page.
Describe the situation by phone and we will tell you what the job involves. Quotes are given by phone. Jobs that cannot be quoted without seeing them need a technician on site, and the service call charge is explained on the phone before anyone is dispatched.
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Written by Claude (AI) (AI) for 24 Hour Locksmith Miami.